so, ian and i are getting pretty well settled here in tel aviv, israel. we arrived on december 1st and were greeted at the airport by emily who drove us to her place and made us feel at home right away. we spent about 6 days here before heading off for 10 days in egypt (which i'll save for another post) and were back here in tel aviv on the 16th. we've had a lot of fun, hung out with a lot of amazing people, have had a wonderful time being in a not long-distance-relationship with emily, and generally getting to know the city. since we are spending quite a bit of time here compared to anywhere else on our travels i thought i'd update people on some of the work we plan on doing while we're here and what we have done and seen so far in regards to that work. i'm going to break this down into segments and i'll provide links and some of my own photos at the end of each section in case you want to read more/learn more/explore.
i don't even know where to start, so i guess i'll start with
bi'lin. bi'lin is a village in the west bank, not too far from jerusalem and not too far from tel aviv. much of the land of bi'lin has been annexed by israel for illegal settlements and the separation wall cuts the villagers off from their land. the location of the wall has been deemed illegal in an israeli court, but in spite of court order, the wall has not been moved or torn down. i'm trying hard to break this information down and just give the bare minimum because a book could be written about this situation. ok. so. the villagers of bi'lin have been holding weekly non-violent protests each friday at the wall since early 2005. so approaching 5 years. every week. rain or shine. peaceful non-violent protests. they have become a symbol the world over of the palestinian struggle. perhaps not surprisingly, these peaceful protests actually have become quite threatening to israel and the response to them has grown more and more violent. There have been deaths, severe injuries and violence perpetuated against peaceful protesters by the israeli army. tear gas is a weekly occurrence. and now there have been raids and arrests with many members of the committee (popular committee against the wall) being detained. ok, so that's the REALLY short version of a really complicated situation. where do ian and i fit in?
for starters, we visited the village, with emily (who is a lawyer representing the village), and met some of her friends there. we talked about everything from language (differences in arabic language all over the arabic speaking world) to the conflict and our ideas of how it will ever be resolved, to what types of food we enjoy. i played marbles with mahmoud, an 8 year old boy. we enjoyed a lovely evening with beautiful people. and we visited the site of the protests, saw the wall, and the army outpost overlooking it. we haven't attended a weekly demonstration yet, but we plan to go to the one on january 8th, once the holidays are over. i know it will be a little scary, but i also know that emily knows exactly how to keep us safe. she showed us where the action happens and she showed us where we will stand. i feel completely confident and unafraid and it is immensely important to me that i show support this way while i am here and able to.
so, that's that although i will update again after we get to one of the protests.
here is some information:
general information from bi'lin's own website including a timeline, facts, figures, stats, and information about court cases etc.bi'lin facebook communityfree the anti-wall prisoners facebook grouphis name was basem. a short tribute to basem, who was murdered by a soldier in bi'lin. includes photosabout arrests and intimidationsthe ongoing repression of palestinian protestersfree mohammad othmanhow you can helptell president obamaphotos:

tear gas canister at protest site

the army outpost overlooking the wall

the wall

roni, who is in a wheelchair paralyzed from the neck down after being shot by the army. he has brand new triplet babies!



waji and mahmoud

my awesome and relevant bday present from emily
ok, so that's b'ilin. then there is
silwan in east jerusalem. a tiny bit of background information, for those who don't know about east jerusalem:
east jerusalem is the part of jerusalem that was annexed by israel during the six day war in 1967. it is about twice the size of the area of jerusalem that was part of israel prior to 1967, and falls under jerusalem municipality. at the time of the annexation, over 65,000 palestinians were living in that territory. now there are 260,500. currently, east jerusalem is separated entirely from the west bank by the separation wall, causing families to be separated, people to be separated from their work, etc etc. the population of east jerusalem lives in dire poverty (66.8% below the poverty line, and 74% of arab children in the city living below the poverty line) with almost no resources from the municipality going to the palestinian population living there. the jerusalem government has expropriated land from palestinians, building jewish housing units and no palestinian housing units. i'll link below to a really readable and interesting report that goes into great detail surrounding these issues, but some basic facts - 70 km of main sewer lines are lacking, 160,000 residents have no legal connection to the water network, there is a shortage of 1700 classrooms, and there are 9000 children not attending school.
ok, so that's some background on east jerusalem in general. silwan is a village, or neighborhood, that is amongst the poorest in east jerusalem. it is located just outside of the old city walls, very close to the western wall (the kotel) and the dome of the rock. the village has 55,000 residents, half of whom are under the age of 18. 75% of the silwan children live below the poverty line. the residents of silwan pay taxes as israeli citizens or residents, but their village has no playground, no park, no library, no cafe, no health clinic etc etc etc. residents are not permitted to build or expand their homes. and there is a large israeli settlement operating on their land, in the neighborhood called wadi hilwah, in the guise of a national park (ir david - the city of david).
in 2007 the palestinian residents of the wadi hilwah neighborhood established an information center for tourists to ir david and along with it a community center for residents of the neighborhood. the madaa silwan community center is where ian and i will be volunteering once a week during our time in israel. the center offers workshops and classes for children teenagers and adults in language, art, music, theater and more. the center also promotes discussion of non-violent methods to achieve social and civil rights. the center has a small library and a computer lab.
our first full day of volunteering at the center was yesterday (after a visit over the weekend just to check things out). it turns out that there main computer dude is out of town for a couple of weeks and is thrilled to have ian around to help out. in fact, it turns out ian worked on the software that they run on their computers. perfect! as for me, the librarian is actually a recent college graduate (in physics) who took a three hour course in cataloging and is now in charge of EVERYTHING in the tiny library. so i spent my first day helping her catalog her english children's collection, answering questions that she had, and brainstorming other things i could help set up in this library to make it easier for her and more useful for the community. the library opened just earlier this month, so it is the perfect time for me to come in and help out a little bit.
i'm sure there will be other ways that ian and i will be able to help out. it's really exciting.
we also have signed up for the archeological tour offered of the area...a joint initiative by archaeologists, activists and local residents, it basically shows an alternative to the official city tour offered at the city of david. from their brochure:
"We view archaeology as a cultural treasure that does not belong to any one nation or religion but is, rather, a means for building bridges between peoples and cultures in the region".
information:
the association for civil rights in israel's report on the state of human rights in east jerusalem, may 2009silwan information centerthe community centerthe alternative archaeological tourphotos:

madaa mural

i love you silwan

ian's famous


playing a game, learning about shapes


in the library
ok, so i was going to tell you more, but clearly this is already ridiculously long, so i'll stop here with the details. instead of going on for a long time about
sheikh jarrah,also in east jerusalem, i will encourage you to read
this about the urgent actions that are taking place there and you can see the sheikh jarrah website
here.
here's one photo of a friend of emily's (a new friend for us) at a rally outside of the courthouse waiting for arrested friends and comrades to be released. they were arrested at protests at sheikh jarrah.

we also hope to make it back to the hebron hills to visit the lovely people in
tuwani and see the completed playground. you can remember our last visit to tuwani and learn about the playground project
hereand just know that every day there is more sad news, but also more hopeful news of people working hard and fighting the good fight in their communities. we are inspired by the people here who have dedicated their lives to justice, not the least of which is, of course, emily. i have never seen a single person work so hard to make wrongs right (and still to play so hard). we have attended, and will continue to attend demonstrations, rallys, and protests. we will also continue to eat good food, meet wonderful people, go out dancing, and have amazing conversations. tonight we are cooking dinner and then emily and i are abandoning ian to go on a date together. tomorrow, well, that's a secret. but i'll tell you later!
you can find photo sets, as they grow, here:
tel aviv funjerusalembilinsome twitter accounts worth following, if you do that sort of thing:
jewish voice for peacemondoweisswar on wantwall prisonersmuzzle watch zeek magazinemy friend jillian, a writer